Happy Ending

Oh, Rome you are such a bad boy. Just when I was ready to leave you, you show me a side of you I haven't seen. It was a great last day together. You really are a tease.

I thought the day was going to be like the rest of my time with Rome - always leaving me wanting more. But today he came through. It was very pleasureable. The sun came out around 11am, just when I came into the heart of the city. My spirits immediately lifted. Rome and I had the energy of young lovers. We went back to San Crispino for whiskey and rum chocolate gelato. Delicious. Then he showed me a new place - a coffee shop where they roast their own coffee. It's right by the Pantheon and dates back to when this area was licensed to roast coffee beans. Rome introduced me to a drink the locals get - granita di caffe con panna (coffee slush with cream).

My friend Jeff arranged for me to take the Offical underground/ruins/archelogical/necropolis tour; more easily stated the Italian way, Ufficio Scavi. Usually one has to book this tour a good week in advance. Jeff called me this morning to tell me he put me in the 3pm tour. But not having an offical entry ticket, I was going to have to get past the Swiss Guard and to the Ufficio Scavi office where I should be able to buy the ticket. He suggested that I follow the group in and try to avoid talking to the Swiss Guard. What he didn't tell me was that the Basilica was closed today. They weren't letting anyone near St. Peter's. So, I talked my way past the first gates by saying that I wanted to go to the Posta Vaticana (the post office of the Vatican City). Even though every one else was being pushed back and scolded, I got through. Then I went to the guards that stand where people exit the Basilica. They kept telling me that everything was closed and on tours were going on. I explained that my friend, a priest at the American College in the Vatican City placed me on the Scavi tour. They said there are no Scavi tours. Humph!? I knew Jeff wouldn't do that to me, but I wasn't so sure about Rome. So, I went in to the post office to hang out for a bit - it was only 2:30 - and try to figure out how to get past them. Now, you must understand that I am trying to SNEEK INTO THE VATICAN CITY. When I went back outside, the guards were gone, but that left the Swiss Guard. These guys are serious, have crazy uniforms, are really Swiss, and have been doing this job for a long time! Ok, here we go.
I approached the Swiss Guard, who was currently turning away a nun!, with a piece of paper in my hand. It was just my little note that I made about the time and place of the tour. I told the Swiss Guard that my priest friend put my name on the Scavi tour list, but my offical ticket is at the Scavi Office. I pointed to my instructions on my little note paper. He asked for my ticket/pass. I explained again. (There never was any ticket or pass, but Jeff told me others would have one.) He asked where my friend was, inside or out. He apparently thought I was meeting Jeff. Well, of course I told him that he was in his office which was conveniently through the arch behind the Guard. Voila! He let me pass and even told me where to go. Ha! I only got about fifty feet before another guard stopped me. But I told him that " the Swiss Guard told me that the Ufficio Scavi office is just up there." He also gave me directions and waved me on. Yea!
When I got to the office there was a moment of panic b/c I thought Jeff said it was under his name, but in fact it was mine. I paid and was good to go. Just had to wait for the docent. The tour is only for 12-15 people. Nice.

Best thing anyone could ever do in Rome!!! There is so much information that I will have to say if you ever go to Rome, and are remotely interested in archeology, history, christianity, the Vatican or all of them, you MUST plan to do this tour. We learned about 2000 years of pagan graves, popes, St. Peter the apostle and first pope, and St. Peter's the first and second basilicas, as well as the Vatican hill and valley which name originally had nothing to do with the catholic church. We went two stories under the alter and nave of the basilica and saw a 2000+ year old necropolis (literally city of the dead) and St. Peter's bones. You do not see this on the Popes' tombs tour! OMG, OMG, OMG. And I mean that literally. Wow. I will do this again - anytime, everytime! I visit Rome.

So, Rome, you won me back. You are a sly Italian lover. I should never have doubted you.