Sex in the City

Oh, get your minds out of the gutter. I've done some eating and praying, but the only loving has been of the beautiful scenery - so far (wink, wink, nudge, nudge).

March 18

Visited the ruins of Pompei today. You know, I knew it was big, but holy cow - IT'S HUGE!!!!!! Yes, all those explanation points are needed. My guide book (Rick Steves is the "must have" for Italy travel) says to allow at least three hours, which I did. Secretly though, I was thinking that I'd get bored, tired or both before the three hour mark. I mean, I've seen ruins before and one's imagination can only stretch so far. Picture this wall here and that door there. You get the idea. Well, I had my day planned to see Pompei in the morning then make my way to Naples for a lunch at Antica Pizzeria di Michele. It's been a staple for Neopolitans since 1870, but it's only been this century that the world has come flocking to eat there. It is a must visit for me. More about that in a bit.

Three hours in Pompei turned out to be too little. I arrived before 10am and was shocked to see when my watch read 1pm. It was going to take me a good hour to get to the pizzeria, but I hadn't even seen one sixth of Pompei. Oh, boy. I had to see two more things: the colosseum and the brothel. How telling is it that the brothel turned out to be one of, if not the best preserved building from the eruption. Complete with large stone beds and horribly uncomfortable stone pillows, the brothel also offered artwork for those needing inspiration.

Another hour passed before I left Pompei to catch the train to Naples and pizza heaven. Pizzeria di Michele offers only two pizzas: margherita (with cheese) and marinara (with no cheese but oregano and garlic). It's less than $10 for a whole 14 inch pizza and a beer! I ordered margherita with doppio mozzorella. (I read somewhere to order double cheese.) The place has not changed since it opened. People stand in a line that stretches down the street, waiting for this simple stone-fire-oven baked deliciousness. I got there at 3pm and there was still a line. But, viola! There were just a few of us eating single, so we got seated quickly!

to be continued...